CELL Iceland Semester Program 2007

Iceland Study Abroad: An Adventure in Sustainability

2008-01-22T12:53:00.001-05:00

CELL offers life-changing study abroad programs for students who believe that they can make a difference in the world and who aren't afraid to try! During a CELL Iceland program, you will explore sustainability through community in one of the most remote, geologically unique, and environmentally friendly countries in the world. You will experience Iceland's breath-taking beauty. You will live in one of the world’s first ecovillages. You will learn from a country committed to producing clean, renewable energy -- an island nation leading the world toward a path of sustainability. You will learn about imaginative solutions to global problems and what is being done today to solve these problems. You will join a team of committed people who are changing the world.

What do students say about our Iceland program? Below are several student comments about our Fall 2007 Iceland study abroad program:

Sara: I have been renewed in something so powerful and so beautiful, yet so often and easily forgotten or lost…HOPE. I realized this change, this re-sprouting growth when I first arrived in Iceland, when we first began exploring the course concepts, this country, when we first began learning from one another. Here, with CELL, this hope was revitalized and renewed. I feel it strong and powerful in my spirit. I feel empowered with this -- empowered to explore my dreams deeper, with satisfaction in knowing they can be lived healthily, sustainably. The many memories from CELL: the learning and growth, the ideas and concepts, the beauty of Iceland and the compassion, honesty and humbleness of the people here and within the CELL group will also remain with me; remain a powerful and influential source in my life. Today, Iceland is warm in my soul, a great gift I cherish and will continue to remember and be inspired by.

Ian: I had never thought much about the correlation between sustainability and community. It has been very enriching being a part of constructing a community amongst the CELL group and becoming part of the Sólheimar community. I know our presence here has greatly enriched the Sólheimar community and each future CELL group will continue to foster these connections. The lessons and experiences of this semester are sure to have a lasting impact on my life. I am far more environmentally conscious as result of this semester, and I plan to encorporate environmental stewardship into my life. In the past three months I have had the opportunity for much contemplation on how I want to live my life when I return.

Kelly: I’ve never felt so encouraged to grow, so free to be myself, so loved or appreciated for just the way I am. The people have made this program so much of what it is. As for the classes, while it was difficult at first to shift from attending purely science lecture-based classes to discussion-centered classes, they have opened the door to new ways of thinking about and approaching problems. I’ve learned how to be a better listener, to be more effective in getting my points across, to look at issues from different views and to ask questions that may not often be considered. I feel absolutely changed from my time here. I think being here has opened me up to a new way of living that feels better than anything I’ve ever experienced or seen before. It has all been a blessing.

Nibby: I will not go back the same. I don’t think I could go back the same even if I wanted to... I’ve learned about global environmental issues and global warming throughout my three years at school, but never with such focus and concentration. These courses have really sparked me to always be asking the question, how would someone who doesn’t care or doesn’t really know be looking at this idea? Is everyone going to be super excited to be riding their bikes to work? I feel like I’m going home bullet proof: no one’s bad attitude, doom and gloom, apathy, or ignorance is going to get me down like before because now I have a new sense of mission and urgency. We are the ones we have been waiting for and I am the one I have been waiting for. I have also learned some really important social skills here. The people of Solheimar are so unconditionally loving and accepting. There is such a sense of timelessness too. The only time seems to be now. I want to embody more of these qualities in my own experience wherever I go...

Below are some reflections on our fall 2007 semester program.

CELL Field Trip: Hydro Power, Gulfoss waterfall, and Geiser hot spring

2007-11-18T13:22:00.002-05:00

On Tuesday, November 13th we visited the Burfell Hydro Power station located at the head of Thjorsardalur Valley in south Iceland. Over 70% of Iceland’s electricity is generated from hydro and geothermal power – both of which are renewable and carbon-free. This small island nation leads the world in the percentage of electricity generated from renewable sources. As Iceland produces far more electricity than it needs, it exports its excess power by importing electricity intensive businesses, such as aluminum smelters. Bringing the aluminum industry to Iceland, however, has been quite controversial. Iceland is currently trying to attract “server farms” (high tech data bases like Yahoo and Microsoft) - businesses that require large amounts of electricity, but don’t adversely impact the environment. This innovative thinking will diversify Iceland’s economy, while attracting more environmentally friendly businesses.

After visiting the hydro power plant, we visited Geiser – the original geothermal hot spring from which the name “geiser” originated. Later, we visited the impressive Gulfoss waterfall – perhaps the most photographed waterfall in Iceland. Below are several student descriptions of our field trip.

Dave S: The trip to the Burfell hydropower station was one that I had been looking forward to the whole semester. There’s a great deal of controversy over hydropower in the United States. Is it truly a “green” source of power? Surely, it’s renewable, but what of the damage it can cause to ecosystems? The interesting thing about Iceland is that it doesn’t have nearly as many ecosystems to damage as the US. There
is also controversy in Iceland over making reservoirs out of once free-flowing rivers. Our speaker from Burfell told us that the largest reservoir that had been built was only flooding a lava field with minimal vegetation and almost zero life... All this talk of hydropower’s impact made for an interesting discovery in my mind: there really is no truly impact-free source of power. The problem with fossil fuels is obvious. Solar power generally uses mined silicon… Picking an energy source is really just picking (the lesser of several evils). Certainly, there are better options than others. Is this just a necessary risk involved with us getting the energy we need to afford the lifestyles we live? Does our growing need for energy justify the destruction of ecosystems? I don’t know the answer to these questions. All I know is that even if these “green” options aren’t ideal, they are miles beyond reliance on dirty fossil fuels, which not only come with environmental costs of mining, but also have that whole nasty “greenhouse gas” business to come along with them. In the meantime,
while I ponder these questions and wonder if there is another way, I will continue
to push for the phasing out of fossil fuels to switch to technologies like wind, solar, and hydro. They may not be perfect, but they’re the best we’ve got.

Ian: We began our last field trip with a visit to the local Búrfell Hydropower station. This station is owned and operated by the Icelandic power giant Landvirkjun. We were met by the head of public relations and received a thorough lecture on the hydro power industry in Iceland. Throughout this lecture I fluctuated back and forth between the logistical and moral vision of the power company. Iceland already produces far more energy than they need to power their society. They are able to export power by importing foreign business investments (international aluminum smelting businesses that are attracted to Iceland because of their cheap, "green" power) . Eighty percent of all the energy produced in Iceland is sold to energy intensive industry. I was very concerned with the rate of expansion of the power facilities. They currently have 7 hydro stations along Iceland's largest river with another 3 in the works. Also the new power station in the North provides a whopping 700 mega watts dedicated to aluminum smelters. There is also talk of many more geothermal stations being constructed. I am afraid Iceland has caught the bug of capitalistic expansion, and the effects have the potential to be severely detrimental to their environment. We have learned how sensitive Iceland's natural environment is and susceptible to human impacts… Landvirkjun is also making some very impressive environmental decisions. They have made the commitment, for example, that (they will not sell any additional power to aluminum smelters.) They are also pursuing a vision to sell power to “server farms.” I found this idea to be a perfect example of transcending industry into the future. Server farms allow Iceland to continue economic growth through their export of power while moving away from carbon intensive industry such as aluminum smelting.

Kelly: I’ve always thought of hydropower as an all-encompassing “bad” way (environmentally) to harness energy. This thinking changed during our field trip to the Búrfell Hydropower Station. Our presenter, while he was one-sided (pro hydropower), gave us an excellent overview of not only hydropower in Iceland, but also the many issues surrounding hydropower development in Iceland. No matter what we do as humans, we will always have an impact on this earth. No matter how we harvest our energy, we will always have an impact. The question then becomes, what kind of impact do we want to have? And, how can we minimize our impact? It seems that within the expansion of the hydropower stations along the river of the Búrfell hydropower station, Landsvirkjun is considering these questions. But the next question I come to is, why are we expanding our power generation? Iceland is already surpassing the energy needs for the people of the country, but with such a vast supply of available power, it seems the power companies cannot stop there. It’s easy to criticize Landsvirkjun for agreeing to build enormous power stations solely for the energy needs of polluting industries, but our presenter gave a different view. He argued that since Iceland has such large resources of “green” energy, it is their responsibility to offer that energy to energy-intensive industries that would otherwise be utilizing more polluting energy (such as coal power stations elsewhere). This is an interesting way to approach this issue. But I wonder if the amount of knowledge and man-power that goes into creating massive power plants were put into creating more effective recycling systems, would we need more aluminum smelters at all? It’s important to look past the energy-issue and consider why we are demanding more energy and ask what can change there… Energy will never be a simple black and white issue. As long as we demand energy we need to be aware that its production will happen in someone’s backyard. No energy will be entirely impact free, but we can attempt to come closer and closer while also analyzing why we are demanding more energy.

CELL Westman Island Trip

2007-11-04T11:53:00.002-05:00

On Monday, October 29th, we flew out to the Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) arechipelago for a two-day field trip to learn about the history and geology of these rugged and beautiful islands off the south coast of Iceland. Heimaey, the only inhabited island, has been a main fishing center since Iceland was first settled. Approximately 15% of the entire fish quota in Iceland is caught from trawlers that call the Westmans home. In l973, Heimaey made international news when a volcanic eruption led to the evacuation of the town. Approximately, 500 houses and buildings were buried in lava 30 meters thick. The rest of the town was covered in volcanic ash up to 5 meters thick. Several months after the eruption, two-thirds of the island’s residents returned to Heimaey to rebuild their town and homes.

The islands boast the largest puffin colony in the world with over 3 million birds returning to the islands to nest each summer. The lava on Eldfell, the 250 meter high volcano formed during the 1973 eruption, is still steaming one meter below the surface. The islands are spectacularly beautiful and are home to some of the most diverse bird species found anywhere in Iceland.

Below are several student descriptions of their field trip to Vestmannaeyjar.

Emily: The history behind the Islands is what interested me the most. It’s hard to believe that after surviving a volcanic eruption that wiped out a significant part of the town, people still moved back. I guess living in a place as “dangerous” as these islands and feeling comfortable here is one example of knowing your home and taking pride in where you live. To live here you’d have to truly be connected with the land and the sea. When you grow up in an area all your life, you do feel connected to the place. It becomes a part of you (and defines who you are).

Gabby: What impacted me the most during this trip? A couple of things did. The first one is the amazing beauty of this country. I’ve said it before and I’ve seen it before, but I am continually amazed by it. Almost everywhere we go, there’s amazing beauty. When wee first came to the harbor, and the sunlight was hitting the mountain on the other side of the bay, the birds flying around, I just thought: “Wow. This place is amazing.”

The second thing that impacted me was the way people pulled together and worked to save their town (when it was destroyed by the 1973 volcano). They had to make some hard choices, such as letting part of
the town be destroyed in order to save the harbor. That took courage and thinking into the future. What good are the buildings in the town without the harbor (that susatains the fishing industry)? That’s the kind of thinking we need more of. (For example,) What good are our industries without the resources that support them? What good is the economy without nature’s life support systems?

Ian: The trip to the Westman Islands was a rejuvenating experience for me. It was dreamlike as we approached by air the mysterious volcanic island surrounded by
high cliffs. Exiting the shuttle bus from the airport, the refreshing smell of the ocean wafted through my senses… this weekend provided thick fish and ocean aromas that made me feel at home. During the first night I took a jaunt into the lava field. It was an eerily calm and warm evening for this off shore island that boasted the spot with the highest winds in all of Europe. The moon radiated down and the northern lights did not disappoint, painting the sky with greens and silver. The cliffs of Heimaklettur showed off their stern presence growing out of the waters radiated in golden light from the town below. I reminisced of my summer living on the sea, as I watched a few lonely offshore fishing vessels leave the harbor setting their course for the waters of Norway or possibly Greenland.

The following morning I awoke to the realization that Poseidon had conjured up a fierce Gail. It was blowing about 40 knots and pelting frozen rain. As much as I wanted to curl up and spend the morning in bed I forced myself to rise and discover more of the majestic beauty of Heimaey. I left the hotel and started walking and climbed the volcano that had decimated this fishing village only 30 years ago. As I climbed, the wind grew in force and challenged my ability to stay upright. Unlike other occasions when one may curse such weather, on this day it
complimented the volcanic surroundings. It is always amazing to gaze from the top of a volcano and see the path of its lava. In this case, however, one had to think of all the homes that were beneath my very feet from the eruption 1973.

When it came time to leave I had mixed feelings. I wanted to run and find the nearest captain who would take me aboard... It was like saying good bye to a girl friend when you go on a trip: How long would it be till I would see my ocean again?

During the trip I had the pleasure of interviewing two very interesting islanders. Leslie and I have been trying to add an aspect to our film about Iceland’s citizen perspectives on environmental issues. Our first interview was with Simi, an ex fishing captain (and bank manager) who now makes his livelihood in tourism. One of the most astounding pieces of information I received from Simi was his first hand evidence of Global Warming. I queried him if he had seen any new species in the area over the past few years. He replied, “Why yes, three years ago we began seeing flounder,” a species non native to Icelandic waters until the recent warming of the
Atlantic. He also noted that the larger-sized cod do not come as near the island as they
once did but stay farther north in colder waters. Simi was very aware of the
possibilities of detrimental impacts to the ocean if the seas temperatures continue to rise.

We also spoke with Margo Renner. Margo was born in Wisconsin and participated in a
study abroad program on the Westman Islands when she was in High school. She fell in love with the island, returned after she graduated, got married and had a family. She had many insights into the deep connection between the islanders and their respect/connection with the natural world. She concluded that this (connection) was fostered from their remote location
and radical weather. Margo also added to our documentation a perspective of contrasting the cultures between the American Midwest and an Icelandic fishing
village. Margo saw many things that both communities could learn from each other

Justin: On another adventure, the CELL group traveled to Vestmannaeyjar, or Westman Islands in English. We had awaited this adventure for quite some time since the small five and nine passenger planes were not able to take off in the previous weeks since the weather in Iceland had been quite rainy and windy. Well, it was worth the wait. The small village on Heimaey, has a population of roughly 4,500 people. The small fishing community had this stark, feel, and aroma to it that was very welcoming, and I fell in love with the place immediately. You could really tell you were on an island; you could practically see the ocean on all sides of you. We checked into a very cozy bed and breakfast, before heading off toeat some lunch at a tiny café by the harbor. The café had a brilliant sense ofhistory, with the models of fishing boats on the walls and pictures abound. I feltalmost at home every time I stepped into the café, underneath the sign blaring“opid,” to eat. That evening was one of the most beautiful and spiritual experiences I have had inIceland. Taking a breathtaking walk along the black lava coast, with the wavescrashing on the edge, followed by the tumbling of smooth stones zooming back to seain a fury, only to be pushed back by the next wall of water. Being able to see themoon cast a brilliant light on the main island… was awe-inspiring. At that moment, I knew what really mattered. The ability to be content with yourself and rejoice in it – is priceless. The fact I am in Iceland on this adventure revolving around sustainability has honestly reinvigorated my soul. Vestmannaeyjar, I will never forget you for what you gave me these past two days. We will meet again. I promise!

CELL Reykjavik Field Trip

2007-10-27T13:19:00.001-04:00

On Friday, October 26th, our CELL group left Solheimar for a day in the “big city” – Reykjavik – Iceland’s capital. A Norwegian settler, Ingolfur Arnarson, arrived in Iceland around 870 AD, and when he saw plumes of steam rising from the hot springs, he called the area “Reykjavik” or “Smoky Bay.” Today, Reykjavik is a bustling city with a population of 160,000 people. Approximately 65% of the country’s population live within the greater Reykjavik area.

Reykjavik is the world’s most northern national capital with a latitude of 64”08’ N, skirting the southern edge of the Arctic Circle. In mid-winter, Iceland receives only four hours of daylight per day, but its summers are blessed with nights that are almost as bright as the days.

Many think of Reykjavik as a frozen capital city. This is a myth. Average mid-winter temperatures are milder than New York City. This is because Iceland’s coastal weather is moderated by the warm waters of the Gulf Stream. Reykjavik, however, is very wet and windy, averaging 213 rainy days each year.

In the morning, we visited the Saga Museum at the Perlan Center. As the museum brochure explains:

“The first Norsemen came to Iceland in the last decades of the ninth century. Their arrival and settlement was part of a general expansion of Viking culture that spread to many parts of Europe. Throughout the period of settlement (beginning in 870 AD), everyday life in Iceland was very difficult. The weather was hardly friendly for most of the year and the land was still volcanically active. The Icelanders often fell victim to eruptions, earthquakes, avalanches and other natural catastrophes that made their lot even harder. And, if that was not enough, they were also subject to the notorious Black Death that led to the destruction of more that a third of the population. However, none of this deterred those who lived here and they developed a remarkable culture with a literature that equals that of any other country in Europe.”

The Saga Museum recreates major events in Icelandic history from the time of the earliest settlers up to the Reformation. Life-like replicas of historical Icelandic figures have been created, based on descriptions found in the Viking sagas and chronicles. Some of the “characters” in these pictures appeared very “life-like” indeed. J

After our visit to the museum, some of our group opted to tour other sites and shops in Reykjavik, while several of us took a trek up Mt. Esja, a 3,000 foot volcanic mountain range 10 kilometers north. The mountain range itself is 20 kilometers long and each side of the mountain has its own particular characteristics, weather patterns, etc.

Sara, Nibby, and Dave had a wonderful afternoon hiking Mt. Esja. Hiking from sea level to the summit, we not only climbed 3,000 vertical feet, we also experienced temperatures ranging from summer to winter and winds from 0 to 50 kilometers per hour. We started hiking in shirt sleeves. Half way up, however, the winds picked up and we found ourselves in the middle of a sleet and snow squall dumping a couple of inches of fresh mixed-snow on the mountain.

It was so exhilarating to be hiking a mountain with such extreme weather contrasts. Three quarters of the way to the summit, the winds died down and the snow stopped. As the snow covered the trail, we found ourselves taking a “scenic route” part way up and reconnecting to the trail several hundred feet below the summit. This was the steepest section of the ascent, with chains and steel support bars providing secure hand holds on the snow- and ice-covered trail.

At the top, we ate a few biscuits (cookies), gulped some water, and snapped a few pictures before the wind persuaded us start down. Within several minutes of arriving at the summit, we found ourselves in the middle of another squall with near white-out conditions. We headed down quickly following the same route we just came up with snow blowing into our faces: inhibiting our vision and frosting our eyelids. Once we were below the steep section, the winds and snow let up and we enjoyed trotting and “skiing” down the moderately steep trail on our boots.

Once we dropped 500 feet or so of elevation, the snow stopped, the wind dropped, and the clouds opened up to reveal windows of clear blue sky. It was an amazing hike: where we experienced summer to winter to fall weather conditions all in the course of three hours.

CELL Geothermal Field Trip

2007-10-22T17:15:00.001-04:00

On Friday, October 19th, CELL took a field trip to the Reykjanes peninsula, an area rich in geothermal energy, to visit two geothermal-powered electricity generation plants and the Blue Lagoon: a luxurious geothermal-heated spa. Ok, it was a rough day, but someone had to do it.

Most of Iceland’s geothermal energy is in the form of hot water used to heat over 95% of its homes and office buildings. However, in the Reykjanes peninsula, they are also drilling bore holes into the earth’s crust and tapping high pressure geothermal steam used for turning turbines and generating clean, carbon-free electricity. The Blue Lagoon was created accidentally when it was discovered that the clean waste water from the power plant formed a natural hot spring. Soon, area residents and tourists were flocking here to bath in the warm and aesthetically unique hot pool. The modern Blue Lagoon facility was built several years ago, and, today, attracts over 400,000 visitors per year. The blue color is caused by the algae and minerals in the water, which is believed to have healing properties. Below are several student journal entries of our amazing learning adventure to the Blaa Lonid.

Journal Entry by Sarah Oakes, CELL student from Hope, Maine: Smoke billows out of the smoke stacks rising upwards into the atmosphere masking the blue sky with white and grey. Pipelines cover the area leading to the five different grinding, gurgling power plants. But something is different here than most other power plants. First of all, there are no people around, no parking lots or cars. The white smoke pouring out of these smoke stacks is pure, clean, non-poluting steam and the pipelines and power plants are carrying and producing clean energy and water. These power plants are geothermal plants - a system of five connected stations in the area. The plants are all automated and all five plants are run by two people. Amazing.

On Friday, the CELL group of students got a very interesting tour through these power plants and learned how they function. I was fascinated to find out about the closed loop process of the system, and to develop questions about geothermal energy used throughout the world. First, we traveled to the bore holes, which are 2000 to 3000 meter deep holes in the ground where the geothermal energy is harnessed. These bore holes have very intense pressure in their depths where the geothermal steam is found. This steam and liquid travels through insulated pipes to the power plants where it turns turbines to produce power which is used for electricity. In one of the power plants, the geothermal steam travels through the pipes to a binary engine to fuel three generators from the same steam. The liquid that comes out of the power plants does one of four things: Fifty percent of the water that comes out of the power plant is put back into the ground to replenish the stores of geothermal energy that are harnessed. Some of the water travels through cement pipes to the ocean, and is cooled as it travels to be closer to the temperature of the ocean. Some water is cooled and sent to towns in the area for home heating. The remainder of the water is pumped into the Blue Lagoon, which is one of the most popular tourist sites in Iceland. This "wastewater" that comes to the Blue Lagoon is very pure and clean saltwater. The geothermal power plants take the heat from the water and do not contaminate the water in any way. The water in the BlueLagoon has lots of minerals and silica which has many health benefits and is good for skin diseases, not to mention that it is a wonderful recreational site.

The power plants producing the geothermal energy are very environmentally conscious. The power plants we visited are, by their own desire, surpassing all environmental requirements and are very careful about the temperature of the water produced when it is put into the ocean.The plants spent $1 million to direct the pipeline construction around a lava field instead of taking the direct route through it, so as to preserve the lava field and to blend with the natural, aesthetic beauty of this area.The power plants are also researching deepdrilling (drilling down to a depth of 5 kilometers) to the super critical zone which will produce ten times as much energy as the normal bore holes do now. However, the environmental impacts of this type of drilling are being closely looked at, and the process is still being researched. It was fascinating learning all about how these plants and others throughout Iceland that are harnessing geothermal energy and heat with almost no negative environmental impacts. With the large stores of geothermal energy throughout Iceland, the research and production of geothermal energy makes great sense. As the country researches the possibility of deep drilling to produce more energy, I began to wonder what the environmental impacts of continued deep drilling would be? Although geothermal is an excellent alternative energy, it is important that it is not over used. I wonder if the Iceland Deep Drilling Project is looking into the environmental impacts and looking at how to replenish the stores of geothermal water. As I was going through the day, I started thinking about what kind of impact deep drilling for geothermal would have on other areas of the world. Iceland is very experienced in the area of geothermal, and has begun exporting its knowledge and expertise on geothermal power to other countries. However, is it feasible for other countries to drill for geothermal? Iceland has a small population of 300,000 people and the massive amounts of geothermal the country has in store can supply the energy needs for the people. But what about the U.S., for example, that has rich geothermal stores, but has 300 million people? How much of our population's energy needs could be supplied by geothermal? Is geothermal a potential answer? I think sometimes people focus on one solution to our energy needs, when the answer lies in a combination of many viable solutions. Geothermal energy might not provide for all energy needs in the U.S., but it could be a piece of the pie. Geothermal combined with wind and solar and other alternative energy sources is a better solution and fits energy needs better than one single solution. It is important as we research alternative energy sources and shift towards a renewable energy based society, that we are open to creative ideas that will enable us to collaborate and find the solutions that are best tailored to individual communities, countries, and continents

Journal Entry from Sara Domek, a CELL student from Wyoming: .
Our visit to the brilliant waters of Iceland´s spectacularly calming Blue Lagoon inspired in me a renewed awe and respect for Iceland´s energy development. Not only is this country leading the way in new approaches to energy development, the innovations behind these ideas are founded on a commitment to public awareness and involvement. As every Icelandic adventure has proven (from the Soil Conservation Society to the National Energy Authority), the top-down approach to energy development is not followed here in Iceland. The big-name companies developing the renewable energy at this rich geothermal hot-spot open not only their clean, healthy waste-water to the public, but also their industrial facilities. This past Friday, we were welcomed into the geothermal power plants, invited to indulge one of the most amazing lunches I have ever enjoyed, and sent off to soak off our big day in the Lagoon... and all this was paid for by the geothermal power company!

Now, I am not one to typically be swayed by fancy luxuries or silica-clay mud masks, but I must say that Iceland´s geothermal power plant has won my admiration, and for much broader reasons than this generous day. As we have discussed throughout this semester, Icelanders seem to have a great sense of responsibility: organizations and the government are always searching for better ways to involve the public, companies seek out more sustainable approaches to industrial development, and the leaders of this country are the first to admit that there are always, always improvements in the initiatives and methods being used for different problems. Our guide at the geothermal power plant was so open and willing to share not only the numerous positive choices being made here, but he humbly shared with us what approaches needed improvement. I believe that this humbleness, this awareness and acknowledgment of the fact that there are always was to be better benefits this country in its endeavors in every way possible.

By openly recognizing that they can become more sustainable, more devoted to environmental protection, and communicate and interact even better with the public invites these individuals, these companies, and this country to join in this movement as a collective. The doors to innovative and creative new thought are wide open in Iceland, and I believe the success of
this model is hard to ignore. Countries which seem to be struggling on the path towards sustainability must acknowledge their failures, learn from these, share them with the public, and be willing to stand up, build support, and, with renewed strength and passion, join in the
collective towards a better future. This may seem like a strange conclusion to be drawn from our day at the Blue Lagoon, but the innovations and awareness which were exemplified during this visit reinforced these ideals (and my responsibility to share them). I believe a day in the healing waters of the Blue Lagoon has the power to inspire a lot of creative change in
anyone...perhaps we should invite President Bush over for a tour and soak?

CELL Sustainability Field Trip

2007-10-10T17:05:00.001-04:00

On October 5th, we visited Iceland’s National Energy Authority and the Ministry of the Environment to learn more about the country’s environmental issues and their unique, proactive solutions. The pictures inserted into the text are from our field trip to Landmannalaugar this past weekend. Landmannalaugar is a unique area of surreal rhyolite mountains with their soft pastel colors; hot thermal springs; distant glaciers; and magnificient colar contrasts of the green mosses with the shades of oranges, yellows, reds, and browns of the rhyolite peaks. Below are several student summaries of our field trip.

Ashley is a CELL student from Northland College in Wisconsin: Every day that I am in Iceland I realize that I am living my dream: A dream where people have empathy about the world around them. Maybe it is the lens I am seeing the world through right now, but living here at Solheimar (a unique eco-village) and viewing kindness and dedication in a community that is fully functional and happy and then seeing the national government and large national corporations actually caring about the environment – this has given me cause for celebration and hope. The question I have is: How do we get our government and our corporations to care enough to learn from Iceland’s example?

Dave is a CEL L student from Unity College in Maine: Partway through the second presentation, my brain wheels began to turn. I thought it was very interesting that the man making this presentation noted that “in a cost-benefit analysis, land is often counted as zero,” a very relevant point which we’ve been exploring recently in class. I’ve never really thought of environmentalism and sustainability issues from an economic standpoint until this program. It’s a great thing to be opened up to. Instead of ignoring something I once didn’t understand, I’ve been led into this world of economics, and shown how economics and sustainability must go hand-in-hand for either to succeed.

Emily is a CELL student from Paul Smiths College in New York: One fact that impressed me the most during the presentation was the usage of natural resources comparing Iceland and the rest of the world. Over 90% of all homes and buildings in Iceland, for example, are heated by clean, renewable geothermal energy and over 70% of Iceland’s electricity is produced from clean, carbon-free renewable energy. Iceland is truly leading the world in its commitment to renewable energy. Sometimes I wonder why places in Wyoming (near Yellowstone, for example) are not utilizing geothermal energy since they too have hot springs and similar potential as Iceland. Geothermal energy could be an important piece of our nation’s energy pie, and Iceland has proven that it is viable. Perhaps we can learn from Iceland’s example..

Sara is a CELL student from Northland College in Wisconsin: What struck me most at the National Energy Authority was the foresight of the Icelandic government: the recognition that Iceland is a country with a unique energy story. Unlike so many other countries, including the United States, Iceland´s government is not hiding behind a curtain of lies regarding energy. Instead, this government is leading the way in methodology in approaching these challenging issues. The deep drilling project which is underway is opening the doors of innovation for new possibilities for efficient, renewable energy for the country. It seems to be a reoccurring theme in sustainability efforts that environmental changes take place in the valuing of common heartfelt connections with place and those who share this place with you. One of the great visualizations of this connection is the carbon dioxide monitoring system which the Ministry of the Environment has implemented on a local Reykjavik citystreet. This CO2 monitor brings the message HOME to the people of this city...it is a direct, open form of communication of the environmental problems facing this city, this country, and the world. It is a message to awaken and an inspiration to create change from the center of the heart, from the place where these values matter the most.

Sarah is a CELL student from Hope, Maine: One of the questions I had before our field trip was about Iceland's energy policy and the success of the country in becoming more sustainable. Iceland is trying to promote the utilization of clean renewable resources in all areas. It's main objectives are to promote sustainability, diversification of industrial activity and the economy, to improve living standards, to expand energy exports and to increase foreign investment in Iceland's energy resources. Iceland has been working to replace fossil fuels as a source of domestic energy resources with alternative renewable sources. Today 72% of Iceland's domestic energy comes from renewable resources. Geothermal energy is used to heat around 90% of homes and buildings in Iceland today. There is incentive to use geothermal heating because it is cheaper than electricity, and it is less polluting to the environment. The 28% of energy use that comes from fossil fuels in Iceland is almost completely for transportation and the fishing industry. Research and work is being done to see how to integrate alternative resources into transportation and fishing. There is also government incentives to drive more fuel efficient cars because some automobile taxes are now based on CO2 emissions, the volume of the car engine, and the weight of the car. The government is also looking into fuel taxes, like taxes on the carbon content of fuel or having alternative fuels, like bio-fuels, be exempt from taxes. The Icelandic government, along with other organizations is taking action in promoting a societal change towards sustainable practices. I wonder if the government of the U.S. started making incentives for people to live more environmentally friendly, what effect it would have on society? What will it take for our society to see the changes that need to be taken before it is too late? A societal shift needs to happen in order for people to want to live sustainably. There is a lot that our government, civic organizations, non profit organizations, schools, community organizations, and individuals can do to promote an ethic of sustainability.

CELL Trip to Mt. Hekla and the Gunnarsholt Research Center

2007-10-02T16:29:00.001-04:00

On September 28th, we visited the Gunnarsholt (Soil Association) Research Center where we learned about the amazing things this organization is doing, in collaboration with many other organizations and farms, to tackle Iceland's number one environmental problem - soil erosion. We then traveled to Mt. Hekla, Iceland's most famous, and still active, volcano.

Below are several student accounts of our field trip.

The following entry is by Dave Stillson, a CELL student from Unity College in Maine: After going through my Geology of Environmental Problems class at Unity, one very prominent idea remained: any geologic problem that a region faces is inherently tied with many others, and half the trouble of getting to the root of the problem is just de-tangling the web. After a short time at the soil erosion presentation, I realized that this confusion can be completely negated simply when there is cooperation between organizations and the public. It’s so enlightening and refreshing to see a serious environmental problem being effectively dealt with by a dedicated organization in collaboration with the public.

A short walk into the most vertically challenged forest I’ve ever been in gave me a
fast "forest fix." The guide’s explanations of how the area was once a black desert really pounded home how far they’ve come in the battle against soil erosion and the attrition of their beautiful landscape. What was previously a black desert has now become an ecologically vibrant forest as a result of human planting and stewardship. Not only is the Gunnarsholt Research Center working in harmony with other organizations and the public, but also with nature.

The following entry is by Ian Larson, a CELL student from the University of Maine at Orono:

Prior to attending this field trip we were given an assignment to apply "crossroads thinking" to the problem of Soil Erosion in Iceland. Our research primarily revealed the persistent threat that soil erosion poses for human life in Iceland. In brainstorming possible solutions, my group concluded that the key to solving this problem, was large-scale cooperation of the entire nation. The fascinating aspect of our visit to the Soil Conservation Society was seeing that this communal problem-solving we had dreamed up in class was already well underway.

The Soil Conservation Service of Iceland is clearly the most inspiring conservation effort that I have come in personal contact with. This organization possesses a unique and
effective methodology on how to make an environmental change. They identify the problems, prioritize the issues, inform those needed to make the change (government,
farmers, public), and they craft partnerships with all stakeholders to take action (erecting fences, fertilizing the land, and planting various types of vegetation). The potential lessons the SCS has to teach the world community has the power to save the planet. Iceland and the SCS 100 years ago acknowledged that over grazing and deforestation had devastated their land and put the future of their civilization in jeopardy. They refused to push the problem under the rug and let another generation deal with the effects; they stood up and pledged to make a change. In l907, the SCS was the first soil conservation organization formed in the world, and the first national Icelandic policies on soil conservation were put into effect in 1908. Today they are winning the war against soil erosion, and more land per year is being conserved through reseeding than is lost to erosion. This story of success is encouraging, and gives me hope that the forests, rivers, and bays of the U.S. may still be preserved for the future.

The following entry is by Nibby Alioto, a CELL student from Principia College:

During our first week in Iceland, we met as a group and shared our reasoning for wanting to come on a CELL Iceland Program. Visiting the Soil Conservation Service and learning about the progressive work that they are doing directly tied into why I wanted to come on this abroad. To me, the collaborative efforts of the SCS was one of those positive examples that I was seeking. I so much want to see examples of people that care, organizations that are making progress, political will directed towards bettering the environment, and ideas that are being out into practice. I just felt so hopeful after out visit to the SCS. Here, in a nation of 300,000 people the government had taken the initiative to save the soil, not to mention one hundred years ago.

I was fascinated to learn about the specific steps that the SCS was taking to fight soil erosion as well as their philosophy. They are planting about five different species in their land reclamation project: Birch trees, lime grass, lupine, and a grass from Alaska. What stuck me at first as irresponsible planting of non-native species, ended up being a choice between the lesser of two evils. Forty percent of the country is suffering from severe erosion problems. The first priority is to retain the topsoil. Having just been in New Zealand, this was a hard mentality for me to come to terms with. There, non-native species have totally transformed the country so that native flora and fauna struggle to exist. But using the lupine is a transition step; it fixes nitrogen in the soil and enables other species to come in and establish along side the non-native plant.

Looking at the dynamic between the farmers and the SCS was very interesting. It seemed that it was in the farmers’ own best interests to coordinate efforts with the SCS. The information is free. The soil benefits are obvious, and there has even been a recent incentive for farmers to join the land reclamation effort. As of 2004, if farmers do not meet SCS standards for sustainability, they do not get a full subsidy from the government. This is just one example of how the entire nation is onboard with the reclamation. It seems to be both a governmental top-down approach to conservation while simultaneously being a grass roots movement. It is inspiring to see real-life conservation efforts that have the backing and support of both the government and the people.

The following entry is by Sara Domek, a CELL student from Northland College in Wisconsin:

With Mt. Hekla peering down at us, we returned from our blissful walk through the forest to the bus, where we bounced along the remaining 30 km to visit this giant volcano. The Mt. Hekla center was most helpful to me as a reminder of the magnificent power of the Earth´s core. Here, lava has flowed from this wind-swept, snowy peak many times, layering the valleys below with thick silicicic magmas. The people of Iceland understand this power, and they respect it with a graceful dignity and reverance for these highlands. Perhaps this is what connects so many of these people to the soil conservation efforts and the growing focus on sustainability in this country. When your very livelihood and that of those sharing your home are so unpredictable, you learn to adapt and change with the land as a collective. It was a magnificently powerful experience to explore Mt. Hekla with the grounded perspectives provided for us at both the SCS center and the visitor´s center. The auðn (barren/deserted) lands of Iceland hold for me a different type of power after this field trip, and I am grateful to have experienced this. As we ventured up Mt. Hekla´s rocky slopes, I was remined too of the vastness ever-present in Iceland. A combination of the climate, the exposure, and the diverse geology shaping it, this landscape carries with it the richness of solace and the expanse of eternity. Perhaps this is what best defines this land: a silent wind-swept and time-swept solitude - a vast open beauty.

CELL Trip to West Iceland

2007-10-02T15:59:00.001-04:00

Below are a few pics of our two-day trip to West Iceland on September 21 and 22 which included visiting the Icelandic Agricultural University, Hraunfossar waterfall, Vlogelmir cave, and the Viking Settlement Center at Borgarnes. This picture shows Ian admiring one of the University's methane fueled cars. The methane is extracted from paper mill waste pulp in Norway and shipped to Iceland. During our semester program, we are exposed to a number of sustainable solutions like this one.

CELL group at top of Vlogelmir cave just before descending.

Picture shows Kelly exiting cave into the welcoming daylight.

This picture was taken on a hike near Ok glacier.

CELL Iceland Study Abroad Program

2007-09-30T18:22:00.001-04:00

Below is a journal entry from Kelly Stewart, a CELL student from Mills College in California.

Night Walks

It has become a tradition of mine to take long walks at night here. I’m not really sure how it first began, but now it’s my favorite time of the day. Last night I walked until 2am. I’m not really sure how that happened either, but I just couldn’t pull myself away from the beauty of the night.

We (Justin, Max, Ashley and I) started out around nine pm, just to stroll to the church and catch the last glimpse of the sunset. But we couldn’t stop there—the night was drawing us in too much. So we set out along the one road that runs by Solheimar. First we walked slowly down the main road interspersing laughter into the silence of the night. Walking here is unlike anything I’ve done before: the darkness engulfs the wide-open land here so that as you walk, you can’t really tell where you’re traveling or how fast. It’s like walking in an extended dream—walking just for walking’s sake, which is the best reason to walk. After a while we turned onto a dirt road stretching towards distant lights, again, with no particular goal or care in mind. This road was a little darker with fences lining the sides. Slowly we came to notice that walking along side us, on the other side of the fence, was a herd of horses. And so it just happened: We found ourselves in Iceland feeding startlingly white horses in the light of an almost-full moon with Northern Lights dancing through the sky, keeping us company. It was one of those moments when you have to step back just to take it in. So I stood in the middle of the road and turned my head from side to side, right: shadow of friends feeding Icelandic horses in the moonlight and left: Northern Lights forming ribbons of green and pink. It was one fabulous extended day dream that none of us cared to end. It took us a long time to find our way back, mostly because we didn’t really want to leave. And once I did find my bed inside a warm house, I pulled the covers over every part of me and closed my eyes only to dream about dark skies, full moons, Northern Lights and the quietness of rural Iceland.

CELL Iceland Study Abroad Program

2007-09-30T17:31:00.002-04:00

What's CELL been up to?

Last weekend (September 21 and 22), our group took off for a two day trip to West Iceland. On Friday we visited the Agricultural University and learned about their commitment to organic farming and the "happy cow" research they are doing. Basically, what they are finding is that when they leave baby cows in the fields with their mothers for longer periods of time (before separating them), they are seeing growth rates that are substantially more than the young cows that have been separated from the mothers and placed in feedlot pens.

The university is also located on the banks of a glacier-fed river that naturally fertilizes the grasses with rich organic minerals - which the Icelandic horses and sheep enjoy.

Sarah petting one of Iceland's unique treasures - the Icelandic Horse.

CELL group on route to the cave at Vlogelmir.

CELL group descending into an ancient cave that was used by a female Viking bandit around the year 1100.

We finished the weekend with a visit to the Viking Settlement Center at Borganes and then stopped in Reykjavik for delicious vegetarian dinner.

Below is a poem written by Sara Domek, a CELL student from Wyoming.

Silty Aurora

The silt-thick rivers,
swift from the glaciers above
swirl together at sacred river junctions
where the soft-white swans play in the shifting eddy
and two black ravens fly above.

Blue Green White
come here to wash one another in thier light,
to carry a piece of the mountains to the sea together.
Stretching out and arcing at oxbow bends,
the soft-turquois ripples marking the journey.

Reflections dance wildly and echo silently across the night sky,
Blue Green White.
Darkness is drawn out,
illuminated clouds of the night glow silty.
An oxbow riverbend of light spreads out,
slivers of White dash out to meet the Green and Blue.
Joined together, the sky settles,
darkness fades back and the colors return to the river.

CELL Iceland Study Abroad Program

2007-09-16T17:14:00.001-04:00

On September 2nd, 2007, CELL arrived in Iceland
with a group of 14 enthusiastic students from 8 different colleges across the U.S. Students and staff were eager

to learn how Iceland is leading the world on a path toward sustainability.

We are living at Solheimar - one of the world's truly unique ecovillages located in Selfoss approximately 110 kilometers from Reykjavik. Solheimar is nestled in a small valley of rolling hills surrounded by fields with ubiquitous Icelandic sheep and horses and framed by rugged mountains and distant glaciers. It is an inspiringly beautiful area with the worlds' cleanest air and water.

Solheimar is a community of approximately 100 people who are committed to living a sustainable lifestyle: raising their own food organically in geothermal heated greenhouses, heating their homes and buildings with carbon-free geothermal hot water, using natural and renewable materials for building and living needs, etc.

This picture was taken after our first snow storm on September 15th. Although Iceland has a reputation for severe weather, the south coast is actually quite mild with summer temperatures cooler than New York and winter temperatures warmer than the Big Apple (NYC). Icelander's (like New Englander's) have a saying: "If you don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes - it will get worse." : ) Yes, we have had some blustery, rainy weather, but we have also had a couple of beautifully warm and sunny days.

What have we been doing?

During our first two days in Iceland, we were introduced to Solheimar: its history - past, present, and future and to their commitment to living sustainably. This ecovillage is the only one like it in the world, and it is inspiring for us to be living here and learning how the "impossible" (although it may take awhile) is indeed possible. For more information on Solheimar, you can visit their website at: http://www.solheimar.is/. We are learning real-life lessons that we will take back home with us to implement in our own communities.

This picture was taken from the solarium in Brekkukot - the guest house where we are living. The sunroom is heated passively by solar energy and our home is heated by geothermal hot water - a renewable, carbon-free energy source heating 98% of all buildings in Iceland.

On our third day in Iceland, we took off for a 3 day hike from Landmannalaugar to Thorsmork - one of the most popular hikes in all of Iceland - crossing through spectacularly beautiful valleys, hiking over mountains, skirting glaciers, and fording ice-cold mountain streams. Due to snow in the mountains we had to revise our first day itinerary.

This picture shows us crossing a mountin stream during our second day out.

The rainbow picture was taken near Swan Lake. We arrived in this beautiful mountain valley 3 hours before sunset, and as we set out on a hike to a nearby cave, the sun popped out and we were greated by this rainbow that faded in and out for over an hour.

This picture gives a perspective on the wide-open valleys framed on either side by the volcanic mountain ranges. The higher elevations can be snow-capped while the lower zones are vegetated with moss and grass - providing ideal habitat for the Icelandic sheep.

The 3 day hike from Landmannalaugar to Thorsmork is the premier hike in Iceland rivaling the beauty of the Milford Trek and the Inca Trail as one of the great hikes of the world.

One of the highlights of this trek is that it passes through an amazing diversity of landscapes from mountains to valleys, from glaciers to rivers, from barren moon-scape-resembling-terrain to lush woodlands at Thorsmork where we completed our hike. This picture shows one of the valleys we hiked through.

In addition to introducing us to the diverse beauty of Iceland, our 3 day hike also gave us an opportunity to get to know each other, to work as a team, and to build a strong sense of community. We wrestled with the questions: “How shall we live together? What qualities will help us to build a strong community?” Through thoughtful questioning and listening, we crafted an agreement of how we will live together. This “community building” is a vital piece of a CELL program. Picture: A well deserved rest stop...

After 3 incredible days hiking in some of Iceland’s most beautiful areas, we arrived back at Solheimar around midnight on Thursday night, and we all marveled how, in a very short period of time, Solheimar now felt like HOME. It was (and remains) a wonderful feeling. Picture: Welcome sign to Solheimar.

This picture Shows the Solarium within Sesseljhus where we have most of our classes. This state-of-the-art "green" building is heated with clean, renewable geothermal hot water; utilizes natural lighting, is built with natural materials, including a sod roof, and is an aesthetically beautiful building located on the top of a knoll overlooking the Solheimar community. The building was named after Sesselja Heindis Sigmnudsd who founded Solheimar in 1930. From its inception, Solheimar was influenced by the theories and principles of Rudolph Steiner and, today, remains one of the world's unique ecovillages.

On Friday, September 7th Solheimar hosted a formal greeting for the CELL group with Iceland’s Minister of the Environment giving a keynote address and official welcome. We were all impressed and humbled by the graciousness of our Iceland hosts and by this unexpected honor. Picture: one of our classrooms in Sesseljhus.

On Sunday we took a 10 mile roundtrip hike from Solheimar to Mt. Heistur (Horse Mountain). On the way, we hiked across rolling pastures with ubiquitous Icelandic sheep and the stocky Icelandic Horse. This picture shows the variations of color of this beautiful, unique horse breed.

On our way up Mt. Heistur, we hiked up a steep moss-laden ravine and felt like we were floating with each step as we sunk into the 12 inch spongey growth. We hiked to a ridge and then traversed our way to the summit. At the top we were rewarded by 360 degree views where we could see the ocean to the south, a glacier run-off river to the east, Mt. Hekla (one of Iceland’s most active volcanoes) to the north, and rolling farmland leading up to a mountain ridge dusted with fresh snow to the west. This picture shows sheep grazing in the fields surrounding Mt. Heistur.

On Monday morning, we began a two week intensive Icelandic language, history, and culture course. In the mornings we learn about the history and culture of the country, and in the afternoon we have language instruction. This is our Monday through Thursday schedule. On Fridays we take off for field trips carefully choreographed with what we are studying that week. This picture was shows our Icelandic interpretive guide teaching us about the unique geology and history of Thingveiller - site of the world's oldest parliment.

Thingvellier is where the early Iceland Chieftans met to form Iceland's first general assembly in the year 930. This was the beginning of what might be called a "government" within Iceland, and it was at this historic stie that the first laws were established, trials conducted, and disputes settled amongst the early Viking settlers. This picture was taken at Thingveiller and shows the continental divide between the geologic North American Plate and the transition Plate in between the North American and European Plates. It is an area rich in history and geologic significance.

Later that day we went kayaking on a fresh water river meandering its way to the ocean. Picture: Justin putting on a waterproof body suit in preparation for our kayak paddle.

Picture: Grasses blowing in the wind outside Solheimar.

Another ubiquitous rainbow which we never tire of seeing...

To be continued...